Skip to main content

Kolaches in Bikinis

A dang respectable klobasnik.
Last week, at my sister's beach house, I made a second attempt at kolaches and klobasniky. This time I used my grandmother's recipe, which came from her sister Bessie (Morkovsky) Kocian. It was a family affair with my sister and me and five children ages 2 to 14 all handling the dough.

After much procrastinating throughout the morning and everyone asking each other if they REALLY wanted to do it, we began close to lunchtime, deciding that we needed kolaches for svacina. My oldest son (12) and my sister's oldest son (14) took a break from burying each other in the sand to mix up the dough. The 2, 3, and 6 years olds simply wanted to play with it PlayDough-style (or eat it raw... eeeuuwww.) My pastry chef significant other only came in to the kitchen to approve the quality of the risen dough and then moved back to the couch and the flat screen TV, which I took as a compliment.

I'd brought leftover fillings and posipka from our first attempt (kept in the freezer) and mixed up a new batch of cream cheese filling with lemon (my 12-year-old's favorite). We still didn't have enough. There were several kinds of apples on the counter for snacking, so we peeled and chopped those. My sister added butter, cinnamon, a little apple juice and simmered it all until the apples softened. It made an absolutely delicious filling and one I could imagine any Texas Czech farm wife making from what she had growing on her property. We also used some of the dough to make klobasniky from a link of Janak's sausage (Hallettsville) we pulled out of the freezer.

There is something to be said for making kolaches in a bikini with a pina colada in your hand (my great grandmother was probably rolling over in her grave.) It seemed so easy... the recipe worked like a charm, my sister was an expert dough handler, and all the hands-on from the toddlers didn't seem to phase the puffy little pastries at all. The satisfaction of seeing teenage boys roll dough balls instead of staring at their iPods was incomparable.

Real  teenagers make kolaches.


And the smell! What a lovely experience to come in from the deck with your nose full of salty sea air and be hit with the yeasty, homey aroma of baking kolaches.  I ate two apple right off the pan. My 14-year old nephew ate 6 klobasniky that afternoon. We ate more for breakfast the next morning, took 6 to my mom, and 6 came home to freeze. If we could make kolaches from scratch a little tipsy with very little experience watching five kids while taking breaks to change diapers, I think anyone could do it. It was definitely the opposite of vacation convenience food, but made a great activity for restless people trying to stay out of the worst of the Texas sun from 1 to 3pm.

I've got two more dough recipes to test and then I'll decide which one will be "mine." This dough was preferable to me over the first recipe we tried... less dense, softer. And we managed to get a square shape for the pastries as 24 of them rose and crowded into each other while baking on the cookie sheet. I got a little better shaping the indentation in the center for the filling and I loaded on the posipka. I was proud of them.

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

Buchta with Nuts and Raisins

In his photo book Journeys into Czech Moravian Texas , author Sean N. Gallup wrote a few paragraphs about food in contemporary Texas- Czech culture. During his fieldwork, he observed "Other Texas-Czech pastries [besides kolaches ] include klobasniky .... and buchta , a larger fruit filled loaf.... " (Texas A&M University Press, 1998). Though my grandmother made an apricot buchta (or she just called it a roll), more common buchty might be poppyseed or cream cheese. Less common seems to be the buchta I've made filled with nuts and raisins. The Czech word " buchta " doesn't seem to be surviving as well as the word " kolach " either, for though Gallup mentions it third in a list of common Texas Czech pastries, I've found it almost impossible to find a recipe in a community cookbook that actually uses the word buchta . Instead, I find recipes for "rolls".  Still, Westfest actually has a buchta category in it's annual baking c

What I Learned Making 600 Kolaches

Photo by Lori Najvar. The last week in July, I launched a home baking business called Old School Kolaches,  offering pans of made from scratch kolaches, delivered to customers' doors. I got laid off in April and in reaction to scrolling endlessly through disheartening job boards at 50 years old, I decided I'd try doing something I'm good at and passionate about that might also pay some of my bills (work and love don't always go together unfortunately.) It remains to be seen whether this can be instead of or in additional to a standard 9 to 5 job for me. Austin, though it's the state capitol, is a wasteland when it comes to traditional kolaches. The one place I went to here that had decent kolaches closed down only weeks ago. There are instead two kolache bakery  chains , countless donut shops that offer hotdogs wrapped in croissants or tasteless dough and call them kolaches, or one hipster beer and kolaches place that "elevates the classic Central Texas C

Razor Blade (Green Grape) Pie

Behind my grandmother's house in Hallettsville, TX grows an epic grape vine. As far as my mother knows, it's at least 70 years old since she's 71 and it's been there as long as she can remember. It's impossible to tell where the vine actually comes out of the ground or where the end of the vines reach, since they're draped and snaked around and through and over a chinaberry or hackberry tree and onto a huge oak in front of the barn. It's a source of wonder for my 9-year old who sees the mass of leaves and branches as a combination shady fort / animal graveyard (found an entire large animal's skeleton underneath) / potential snake lair. I talked with the extremely nice Lavaca County A&M AgriLife Extension agent in hopes of identifying the variety of grapes. A quick internet search of photos of leaf shapes revealed that they're muscadine, not mustang grapes, but when they're ripe, they're white/green, not the bronze or purple named in A&a